My grandma taught me how to knit and crochet, so when I first started my yarn and hooks were chosen for me. I had no idea what yarn “weight” was, I just went to town on the skein that appeared in front of me. It was also way before Youtube was popular or Pinterest could show me what anything meant, so I was at the mercy of my own devices.
Fast forward to when I started knitting again my last semester in college…I knew that some yarns were chunky and some were thinner, but somehow it didn’t click in my head that there were definitely different weights and they all had their own uses. One of my first projects outside of a hat was a shawl, but instead of using the fingering weight yarn that was called for, I had found a worsted weight yarn that seemed like it would work…so I went for it full speed ahead, only to discover once off the needles that I had created a triangle shaped blanket that reached the floor. Oopsies.
If you’re new to fiber arts, this could be you too. Never fear, I’m here to help!
Modern Yarn Weight Categories and Explanations
According to the Craft Yarn Council, yarn can be sorted into multiple different weights, and each of those correspond with a number. (There is quite the history to yarn weights but that’s another post for another day!) Yarn weights refer to the thickness of yarn, which affects the texture, drape, and overall look of knitted or crocheted projects. Yarn weights are typically standardized by the Craft Yarn Council (CYC), ranging from 0 (lace, super thin) to 7 (jumbo, often roving).
To avoid making my gauge mistake, when choosing yarn:
- Look at the notes/materials used for the pattern. There will often be either a weight recommended, or if the author worked with a yarn brand to produce the pattern, the name of a yarn.
- If it’s the name of a specific yarn without the weight, just Google it and you should find the answer either in the yarn description, or even in the SERP information that comes up.
- If it has a weight listed, filter your yarn search by that weight – whether the number or the name of the type. Some stores list by number and some by name, so knowing both is a plus. 😉
- Most yarn labels will come with a suggested needle size, as do yarn weight charts. This is great, but like the pirate’s code, it is merely a suggestion. For best results, do a gauge swatch of the yarn you picked + the needle size recommended by the pattern author. For those living on the riskier or more impatient side of life (hi, it’s me), you can cast on and see how it’s going after a few rows.
- Some authors will make a note of how tight they knit and offer suggestions. I am a loose knitter but my friend Alabaster Purl is a tight knitter, and most English knitters tend to be tighter as well. In my patterns I make a note of this and suggest sizing up in needle size. This is why it’s good to review pattern notes before getting started.
And without further ado…
Lace Weight – 0
Lace weight yarn is the lightest yarn, creating a fine and delicate fabric when used. If used with larger needles, it can create a delicate and lacy openwork feel. If you hold two strands together, it has the equivalent weight of Fingering weight yarn.
For this yarn you’ll either use tiny needles or hooks to create a solid fabric, or you can add it to another weight to add softness or texture to a heavier weight yarn.
Recommended Needle Size: US 00-1, larger sizes are used for more openwork/airy feeling fabric
Uses: Used in delicate, airy projects like shawls, doilies, or lacework. I’ve also added it held together with worsted weight yarns to add a pop of color or extra softness to a project.
Super Fine / Fingering (1)
Fingering or sock yarn is slightly thicker than lace weight and is listed as a weight of (1).
Uses: It’s versatile for lightweight garments like socks, baby clothes, or shawls, with a gauge of 27–32 stitches per 4 inches.
Recommended needle sizes: range from 2.25–3.25 mm.
Fingering weight yarn is often some of the most beautifully dyed yarn – and it’s not for the faint of heart! I’ve made a number of projects with this weight and while they are lovely, they take a bit of time to get going.
Fine / Sport (2)
Fine or sport weight produces a slightly thicker and warmer fabric than fingering weight, but is still very fine and can be used for detailed patterns or fair isle patterns. It’s also known as baby yarn
Uses: Ideal for Sweaters, Intricate Hats, Baby Garments
Needle Sizes Recommended: 3-5 US (3.25-3.75 mm)
Light / DK (Double Knitting)
I had no idea what DK meant until recently (honestly I always think of Donkey Kong when I see it), and it ended up being the inspiration for this post! DK yarn gets its name because Light/DK weight yarn is the same as two strands of fingering weight held together – double knit or knitting double.
DK is often used for sweaters, scarves, or children’s clothing. If you’re a patient individual, it can also be used for blankets that need stitch definition.
Needle Sizes Recommended: 5-7 US, 3.75-4.5 mm metric
Medium/ Worsted /Aran (4)
Worsted weight is the hammer in your yarn toolbox or Baby Bear (just right) of yarns- you can use it to make pretty much anything, and it comes in all price points, materials, and colors. It’s also called Medium Weight, 10 ply, or afghan yarn.
What’s Aran? Slightly thicker than a typical Worsted, Aran Weight is slightly bulkier than traditional worsted yarn, but not as thick as a bulky weight yarn. It’s popular for cable knitting and runs at abut half a stitch chunkier than wrosted.
Needle Sizes Recommended: US 7–8 (4.5–5mm)
Uses: Anything! Great for beginners too since it’s not too chunky or thin, and it’s pretty easy to see what you’re doing.
Caution: Check your gauge before starting your project, while a lot of yarn can fall under the category of worsted, I’ve experienced that some worsted weights can work up closer to DK, while others, like Aran, can create a much bulkier look.
Bulky / Chunky (5)
Bulky yarn is definitely my favorite for most things – a significant number of my patterns have been written with it! It’s also great for market prep as it works quickly but still allows for more definition than super bulky yarn.
Bulky yarn is often used for blankets, winter headbands, scarves, or chunky sweaters. It also comes in clutch for last minute gifts!
Caution: Like worsted weight, bulky weight yarn can come in a wider size range than you might expect. Make sure to check gauge before making a pattern that depends on specific sizing.
Needle Sizes Recommended: US 9-11, 5.5-8 mm
Super Bulky (6)
Super Bulky yarn is another favorite of mine – the squish can be amazing and soft, and it works up very quickly. It’s often used for hats, scarves, blankets, and crochet amigurumi. Easily one of my favorite yarns is Malabrigo Rasta, a beautiful soft roving that makes amazing hats and scarves. (You could truly do any of these things with it, but a blanket would quickly start to get expensive!)
Because of the bulk, it’s an easy choice for beginners because things work up fast and it’s easier to hold than the lighter yarns. Super bulky yarn is also great for last minute gifts.
Needle Sizes Recommended: US 11-17, 8-12.75 mm
Jumbo (7)
The biggest of all the yarns…jumbo! It’s frequently used for arm knitting or weaving, usually for blankets or maaaaybe a scarf. Roving yarn/arm knitting blankets have become very popular in recent years.
Needle Sizes Recommended: US 17+, 12.75mm + (Or just use your arms!)
Coming soon – pattern recommendations for each weight and the history of how these came to be standardized!
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